Flos Lighting: Answering Your Top 7 Questions on Installation, Design & Quality

Your Flos Lighting Questions Answered

I’m a quality compliance manager in the luxury lighting sector. I review every lamp that leaves our facility—roughly 200 unique items each year. In my line of work, I see firsthand what separates a genuine, long-lasting fixture from something that looks good in photos but falls apart in transit (or after a year of use).

That’s exactly why I’m writing this. Architects and specifiers often ask me the same questions about Flos—everything from can I wire a Taccia to a dimmer? to how do I know if this chandelier is original? Here are my straightforward answers.

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1. How do I wire up a light switch for a Flos fixture?

This is the first thing that trips people up. Most Flos fixtures, especially the IC and Taccia lines, come with standard European or universal wiring—meaning the live, neutral, and ground wires are pre-stripped.

Here’s the short version:

• Turn off the power at the breaker.
• Connect the brown (live) wire to the black or red wire in your wall box.
• Connect the blue (neutral) wire to the white wire.
• Connect the green/yellow (ground) wire to the bare copper or green ground wire.

But here’s the thing I didn’t know early in my career: Flos uses a specific inline switch on many floor and table lamps, like the Arco or the Gatto. That switch might already be wired into the fixture. If you’re adding a wall switch, you need to bypass the fixture’s own switch or risk creating a short.

I once had a $1,200 Taccia returned because the installer wired it to a dimmer without checking the spec sheet first. The dimmer wasn’t compatible. The fix cost $350 and a week of downtime. Always verify the lamp’s voltage and dimmer compatibility chart first.

2. Is the Flos Chiara lamp worth the money?

I’ve reviewed the Chiara lamp multiple times. It’s a folding lamp designed by Achille Castiglioni. At first glance, the price tag ($500–$700, depending on the version) seems steep for a lamp that’s basically a folded metal sheet.

But let me share a real example from a project I oversaw. We specified 30 Chiara lamps for a hotel lobby. The budget-minded contractor tried to substitute a cheaper ‘inspired’ version. The difference was immediately obvious:

• The cheap version had sharp edges—visible burrs along the folds.
• The paint finish was matte and uneven on the knockoff. The real Chiara has a distinct, smooth, semi-gloss surface.
• After 6 months of daily handling, three of the knockoff lamps had visible scratches. The real ones? None.

Is it worth it? If you want a design piece that holds its value and appearance, yes. If you just need light, you can find something for $50. But the Chiara is a statement piece. You’re paying for the design heritage and the consistency of materials.

3. How do I know if a Flos Taccia lamp is authentic?

Counterfeit lighting is a real problem. In 2022, I rejected a batch of 40 ‘Flos’ fixtures that turned out to be knockoffs sourced from an unauthorized distributor. The client almost installed them.

Here are three quick checks:

1. Weight: A real Taccia uses thick, spun aluminum for the base and a solid glass diffuser. It's heavy—about 12–15 lbs. The fake version feels light, maybe 6–8 lbs.
2. Finish: The paint on a genuine Taccia is lacquered and perfectly even. I’ve seen fakes with orange peel texture and inconsistent color.
3. Wiring: Genuine Flos fixtures use branded internal components (VDE-approved). The knockoffs? They use cheap, unmarked wiring. I’ve seen plastic clips that snap after a month.

If you’re buying online, avoid resellers who can’t provide a certificate of authenticity or a direct warranty from Flos. When in doubt, contact Flos directly with the serial number.

4. What’s the difference between a Flos IC and a standard track light?

This is a question I hear all the time from specifiers who are new to design lighting. The Flos IC (or “Ic” as it's often written) isn’t a standard track spotlight. It’s a suspension-mounted fixture with a rotating head and a built-in dimmer. Most standard track lights are rod-mounted and fixed.

The IC S1, for example, uses a heavy, machined aluminum body and a high-CRI LED module. The color rendering is noticeably better—CRI 90+ versus the common CRI 80. For a retail space or an art gallery, that difference is huge.

Is it better for every project? No. If you need a linear track layout with adjustable heads, the IC isn’t for you. But if you want a single, sculptural statement light with high-quality output, it's one of the best in its class.

5. What’s a “deco chandelier” and how is it different from Flos?

When people search for “deco chandelier,” they’re usually thinking of Art Deco style—geometric shapes, brass accents, and layered glass. Flos doesn’t make a chandelier that’s strictly Art Deco, but they have iconic deco-inspired pieces like the Frisbi and the 2097/50.

The 2097/30, for example, is a direct descendant of the deco chandelier style: a suspended disc with multiple arms and individual exposed bulbs. The difference is material quality. The Flos version uses polished chrome or brass arms and a precision-machined hub. A cheaper “deco chandelier” might use thin brass-plated steel that tarnishes in two years.

If you want a deco look but durability, Flos is a safe bet. Just be prepared for the up-front cost.

6. Can I use an ATT spotlight for outdoor lighting?

The Flos ATT is marketed as an outdoor spotlight. I’ve seen it used for garden paths, facade uplighting, and even in wet locations. The ATT S1 comes with an IP55 rating, which means it’s protected against dust and water jets.

But here’s the caveat: the ATT is designed for external use, not submersion. I once had a client install it as an in-ground uplight in a planter. It flooded the first time the irrigation system ran. The ATT requires a concrete base or a wall-mounted bracket—not burial.

Also, the ATT uses a built-in LED module. You can’t replace the bulb. The lifespan is rated at 50,000 hours, but in real-world conditions (heat, humidity, voltage fluctuations), I’ve seen failures closer to 35,000 hours. Factor that into your total cost of ownership.

7. Am I just paying for the brand? What’s different I should look for?

Honestly? Yes, part of the cost is the name. Flos has a brand value that commands a premium. But it's not just a badge.

Here’s what you actually get for that premium:

• Design royalty payments. The Castiglioni and Sottsass families still hold the IP. A genuine Arco pays a license fee that funds design archives and museums.
• Material consistency. The aluminum on a Flos floor lamp is consistently .063 inches thick. I’ve measured it. The chrome plating depth is uniform to within 1 micron on pieces like the Parentesi. Cheap lamps? The chrome flakes off in two years.
• Warranty support. I’ve called Flos’s after-sales team for a project with 120 fixtures. They had replacement parts shipped in 48 hours. That’s not something you get from a budget brand.

If you’re on a tight budget, look at the Bellhop or the Ray series. They’re still high quality, but a tier below the signature pieces like the Arco or the Taccia. That’s a smart way to stay within budget without sacrificing the reliability.

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Pricing and specifications are based on publicly available data from Flos and major distributors as of April 2025. Always verify compatibility with your local electrical codes. For installation questions, consult a licensed electrician.